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CAIRNS was pegged out over the site of a sea-slug fishing camp when gold was found to the north in 1876, though it was the Atherton Tablelands' tin and timber resources that established the town and kept it ahead of its nearby rival, Port Douglas. The harbour is the focus of the north's fish and prawn concerns, and tourism began modestly when marlin fishing became popular after World War II. But with the "discovery" of the reef in the 1970s and the appeal of the local climate, tourism snowballed, and high-profile development has now replaced what everyone originally came to Cairns to enjoy: a beautiful, unspoiled, lazy tropical atmosphere .
For many visitors primed by hype, the city falls far short of expectations. However, if you can accept the tourist industry's shocking glibness and the fact that you're unlikely to escape the crowds, you'll find a great deal on offer and easy access to the surrounding area - the Atherton Tablelands, Cape York and, naturally, the Great Barrier Reef and islands. Used as a base to explore these regions, Cairns can be fun, as long as you accept its limitations.
Cairns' strength is in doing, not seeing: there are few monuments, natural or otherwise. This is partly because the Cape York goldfields were too far away and profits were channelled through Cooktown, and partly because Cairns was remote, lacking a rail link with Townsville until 1924; people came here to exploit resources, not to settle. Your best introduction to the region's heritage is at the Cairns Historical Museum , at the junction of Shields and Lake streets (Mon-Sat 10am-3pm; $4), which uses photos and some interesting exhibits to cover maritime history, the Tjapukai and Bama Aborigines from the tablelands, and Chinese involvement in the city and Palmer goldfields.
At City Place , the pedestrian mall around the museum, you'll find Cairns' souvenir-shopping centre, with a rash of cafés, and shops selling didgeridoos, T-shirts, paintings and cuddly koalas. Local performers do their best at the small sound shell here from time to time, and there are often more professional offerings in the evenings. Between Grafton and Sheridan Streets, towards Spence Street, Rusty's Bazaar markets (Fri evening, Sat & Sun morning) sell a great range of local produce from crafts to herbs, fruit and veg, coffee and fish. Moving from the mall area down towards Trinity Wharf, the shops become more upmarket, though they're still selling essentially the same things; an increasing number of signs target the many Japanese visitors. Trinity Wharf itself is a dormant collection of offices and cruise terminals , but you might find solace in the bar above the bus station, which overlooks the yachts and trawlers moored in Trinity Inlet. The Barrier Reef Hotel , opposite, is the last of the original rough-and-ready bars, recently given a face-lift; if you're after local colour, this is where you'll find it.
The glass-domed casino faces The Pier , a flashy shopping complex, where many tour and cruise operators have booking offices ready to tempt you with brochures and videos of their activities. An aquarium (daily 8am-8pm; $12.50) here has regular feeding shows and big tanks full of hulking reef fish such as maori wrasse, sharks and potato cod, but somehow lacks punch.
Through the day and into the night, the Esplanade is packed with people cruising between accommodation, shops and restaurants. Grabbing an early-morning coffee here, you'll witness a quintessentially Australian scene: fig trees framing the waterfront, a couple of trawlers and seaplanes bobbing at anchor in the harbour, and drunks languishing on the benches. Joggers jog, and others promenade along the edge at low tide and watch birds feeding in the shallows - there's an identification chart in the park. Though originally fringed in mangroves and mud flats, developers have, after years of wrangles, created an artificial beach down near the Pier; at present the sand is in place but grassed over while it stabilizes and settles. Many locals consider the whole project a waste of money, but when the turf is peeled off at some point in 2002, Cairns will finally have its own beach. The night market (daily 5pm-late), which runs right through from the Esplanade to Abbott Street, has a mix of fast-food courts, trendy tack and good-quality souvenirs, and a good location near plenty of bars.
Just around the corner from the Esplanade on Shields Street, Cairns Regional Art Gallery (Mon-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat & Sun 1-6pm; $6.60) is worth a look if Cairns' crasser commercial side is beginning to grate; exhibitions include both local artists' work and travelling shows. While you're down this way, drop into Gallery Tikowi next door - though actually a shop, it's virtually a museum of New Guinea and eastern Indonesian crafts and well worth a visit.
Heading out of the centre, the city's natural attractions include the Botanic Gardens (Mon-Fri 8.30am-5.30pm; free) and the adjacent Mount Whitfield Environmental Park on Collins Avenue, off the highway near the airport (bus #7 from the City Place transit mall, or a dull forty-minute walk). Ringed by suburbia, the rainforest is dense enough for wallabies, and a raised boardwalk track through the wonderfully cool and tranquil atmosphere makes a fine escape from the city. Also worth a look are the mangrove walks on the airport road, which, from boardwalks and hides, give you a chance to see the different varieties of mangrove trees, mudskippers and red-clawed, asymmetric fiddler crabs. Take some repellent or else give the flies a free lunch.
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| Wharf Street , Cairns , 4870 Australia
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Nestled in the heart of Cairns, the recently refurbished 263-room Hilton Cairns is the perfect base from which to explore the world's most diversely beautiful tropical region. Experience the magical underwater world of the Great Barrier Reef and the fascinating Daintree World Heritage Rainforest. Situated at the beginning of Cairns’ scenic boardwalk, close to the shopping, tourist and business districts, Hilton Cairns is only 10 minutes from Cairns International Airport. Among its many attractions, the hotel features Breezes Restaurant with its panoramic water views, the Mondo Café Bar and Grill, directly on the Cairns waterfront, and Caffè Cino, located in the hotel lobby. Enjoy the heated 50-metre outdoor swimming pool and health club complete with sauna, gym and plunge pool. After a day's exploration of the Tropical North, Hilton Cairns is the ideal retreat.
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RAINBOW PALMS |
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| 157 Sheridan Street , Cairns, Australia
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Our Modern And Spacious Motel Units Overlook Either The Cairns City Lights Or The Pool And Barbecue Area. Each Unit Is Fully Air conditioned And Has Its Own En Suite And Balcony. Conveniently Located Within A Five Minute Walk From The Cairns Ci
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COMFORT SUITES TRINITY BEACH CLUB |
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| 19 23 Trinity Beach Road, Cairns, Australia, 4879
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Beachside Location. Walking Distance To Shops And Restaurants.Fully Self Contained Apartments, Lush Tropical Gardens. LargeSaltwater Pool. Under Cover Parking.
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COMFORT SUITES CITY TERRACES |
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| 63-65 Mcleod Street , Cairns, Australia, 4870
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City Terraces Is Centrally Located In A Quiet Part Of Cairns City, One And Two Bedroom, Fully Self Contained Apartments Feature A Private Balcony And Are Serviced Daily. Just A Short Stroll To The Centre Of Cairns And All Of It*S Attractions With Domestic And International Airport. Our Tour Desk Can Arrange Tours To The Great Barrier Reef, Kuranda Skyrail, Daintree Rainforest, Tablelands And Port Douglas.
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BEST WESTERN FLYING HORSESHOE MOTEL |
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| 281-289 Sheridan St , Cairns, Australia, 4870
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Property Type Inn/ChaletYear Built 9999Best Western Flying Horseshoe Motel And Holiday Units HasBeen Run By The Gill Family For 15 Years. We PrideOurselves In Keeping Our Home Comfortable And Clean WithUp To Date Facilities. Over 60 Of Our Guests R
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BEST WESTERN ACACIA COURT HOTEL |
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| 233 227 The Esplanade , Cairns, Australia, 9870
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Year Built 9999The Best Western Acacia Court Hotel Complex Is Located OnThe Esplanade And Close To The City, Within Easy Reach OfAll Attractions. In House Tour Desk To Assist With DayAnd Extended Tours. Hotel Rooms Have Queen Size BedsBath And Shower
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BEST WESTERN CANNON PARK MOTEL |
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| 574 Bruce Highway , Cairns, Australia, 4868
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Property Type HotelYear Built 1996 Year Remodeled 2002Bw Cannon Park Motel, Located At The Southern Entrance ToCairns And Adjacent To The Portsmith IndustrialHub ideally Positioned For The Corporate Traveler, OffersThe Best Of Both Worlds. Experien
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QUALITY HOTEL PACIFIC INTERNATI |
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| Cnr Esplanade And Spence St , Cairns, Australia, 4870
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Superb Downtown Waterfront Location. Opposite Major DeparturePoints To Great Barrier Reef And Reef Casino. ShoppingPrecinct Nearby. Hotel Overlooks Trinity Harbour And TropicalParks. AuStar Rating 4.5
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SOFITEL REEF CASINO CAIRNS |
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| 35-41 Wharf Street , Cairns, Australia, 4870
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Property Type HotelYear Built 1995Located In The Heart Of The City Directly Across The RoadFrom The Greatbarrier Reef Departure Point. 122 Rooms And6 Suites Contain Spa Baths Andbalconies With StunningViews Of The City Or Trinity Bay. Contemprary Asi
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